Candy recollections – The Hindu

Candy recollections – The Hindu


Inside the Ghatewala sweet shop in Chandni Chowk

Contained in the Ghatewala candy store in Chandni Chowk
| Picture Credit score: Manushree Swami

Through the years, the bustling market of Chandni Chowk has skilled every thing from the rampage of 1857 to Liberalisation of 1990. It has resiliently risen from ruins and so has Ghantewala, the well-known candy store in Outdated Delhi.

Launched in 1790 by Lala Sukh Lal Jain, at this time it’s run by the seventh era of founders. The transformation has been profound, from receiving patronage of Kings and watching the grand palanquins glide by on empty streets, to paying taxes and taking within the on a regular basis cacophony as cycle rickshaws ferry passengers and autos of all sizes jostle for house.

The story of Ghantewala began with Lala Sukh Lal Jain who would promote his sweets, carrying them in a basket on his head. The basket had a bell that gave him the identify “Ghantewala”.

The store through the years turned a everlasting fixture within the lives of many native residents. Historian Sohail Hashmi, who has carried out meals walks in Chandni Chowk recollects, “I obtained hooked on Ghantewala’s Sohan halwa in my faculty days. It was a routine for me to cease over at my buddy’s place in Ballimaran. We might stroll from the campus, have lunch and invariably go to Ghantewala for the dessert.”

The delectable Sohan halwa

The delectable Sohan halwa
| Picture Credit score:
SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Atam Aggarwal, an outdated resident of Navgraha Havelis within the Paranthe Wali Gali, reminisces saving cash to purchase sweets from the Ghantewala store throughout his childhood days.

“The store and its signature dish Sohan Halwa was so common that when one other store with the same identify, Shahi Ghantewala, entered the market, it merely did not construct the reference to prospects,” says Sohail.

Publish-liberalisation, a number of new gamers emerged as opponents with fusion sweets priced at a lesser charge. “We additionally tried to faucet into the fusion sweets class, however it didn’t resonate with our prospects who valued our originality and authenticity,” says Ritesh Gupta, head of operations at Ghantewala Confectioners.

The outlet suffered a monetary setback in 2015 and needed to shut down. Prospects known as it the dying of an icon and expressed their despair by emails and calls. It was the love and assist, wrapped in nostalgia that rekindled braveness within the household and led them to begin the enterprise once more. In its second stint, the store embraced modifications to remain put by including extra number of sweets. The director of Ghantewala, Aryan Jain, introduced in his insights on meals expertise, uncooked materials procurement and unit administration.

The crowd outside 225-year-old Ghantewala sweet shop in Chandni Chowk

The group exterior 225-year-old Ghantewala candy store in Chandni Chowk
| Picture Credit score:
Manushree Swami

Rasik Kumar Patel, who has lived in Outdated Delhi since 1957, vouches for the Ghatewala Sohan Halwa. “The candy can be introduced residence for each event. I nonetheless crave it however at this time’s era doesn’t worth the style; they might reasonably have some junk meals, he says.

The “Ghanta” (bell) rings no extra, however the prospects discover their means again for the style wrapped within the heat of reminiscence. Festivals are the height time for any candy store as it’s for Ghantewala confectioners.

As soon as well-known just for Sohan halwa, it at this time affords much more. “Gulab jamun and jeera kachori fly off our cabinets, and so does pheni throughout Ramzan and Teej,” says Ritesh. Now with Raksha Bandhan not far away, Ghantewala sweets will proceed to convey households collectively in celebration.